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Is the clutch friction zone adjustable?


jumpingjupiter2010-07-29 18:24:59 +0000
Have a '05 cbr600rr. The clutch friction zone is at the very end of the leaver 95% of the way until it hits the free play zone. I can adust the free play (and have) but it just brings the release point closer to the bar not closer in under spring tention.

Also, the friction zone between engaged/disengaged is microscopic. Slipping the clutch for low speed (parking lots and such) is a real art on my bike.

I am susspecting that the clutch is getting warn out (diamiter of the friction plates are less so perhaps less friction zone) but the clutch isn't slipping.

Open to any suggestions.

Thanks in advance
Darkcbr2010-07-29 18:24:59 +0000
how many kms on the bike?
K-rod2010-07-29 18:24:59 +0000
Quote:

Originally Posted by jumpingjupiter

Have a '05 cbr600rr. I am susspecting that the clutch is getting warn out (diamiter of the friction plates are less so perhaps less friction zone) but the clutch isn't slipping.

Open to any suggestions.

Thanks in advance

replace them.
Mr.Sushi ya ha2010-07-29 18:24:59 +0000
Yes! there are 2 places to do the adjustments. One on the bar and one on the cable.

If the clutch is real grabby sometimes you might fix it by doing an oil change with good quality oil. Give it a day or two to work into the plates.

As the clutch wears the clutch pack gets smaller so yo will notice the need to adjust the leaver, In the end the clutch will start to slip and the pack replaced.

A normal rider will not ever have to replace the clutch in a bike unless he is doing lots of wheelies or is real bad on the clutch. I have seen bikes with 50,000++kms and the clutch is still good. and I have seen bikes with 20,000 and the clutch is shot.

It is the thickness of the plates that wear, not the diameter.
jumpingjupiter2010-07-29 18:24:59 +0000
38,000 km. on the Odo.

Yes, sorry I meant 'thickness' not diameter.... So the friction zone will progressively moves farther and farther out on the lever (under clutch spring tention... I don't mean free play) Until finally it will just slip all the time?

I've been pretty rough with my clutch since I bought the bike. Learning to wheely, learning to launch at race school, and way too many practice launches on deserted roads.... it's a pretty safe bet my clutch is on her last legs.

Looks like it is time to order up a clutch kit, pull out the service manual, and figure out how this thing goes together. Should be an adventure.

Thanks. At least now I know I was on the right track.

Anyone know of a good step by step tutorial with lots of pictures. The service manual is fine but I also like How To's because the authors usually include tips on what to be careful of.
Coastmaster2010-07-29 18:24:59 +0000
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Sushi ya ha

If the clutch is real grabby sometimes you might fix it by doing an oil change with good quality oil. Give it a day or two to work into the plates.

What?

By his description of the issue and has someone has already pointed out, the guy needs to change his friction plates.
bottomfeeder2010-07-29 18:24:59 +0000
Quote:

Originally Posted by jumpingjupiter

38,000 km. on the Odo.

Yes, sorry I meant 'thickness' not diameter.... So the friction zone will progressively moves farther and farther out on the lever (under clutch spring tention... I don't mean free play) Until finally it will just slip all the time?

I've been pretty rough with my clutch since I bought the bike. Learning to wheely, learning to launch at race school, and way too many practice launches on deserted roads.... it's a pretty safe bet my clutch is on her last legs.

Looks like it is time to order up a clutch kit, pull out the service manual, and figure out how this thing goes together. Should be an adventure.

Thanks. At least now I know I was on the right track.

Anyone know of a good step by step tutorial with lots of pictures. The service manual is fine but I also like How To's because the authors usually include tips on what to be careful of.

Based on what you've said it's pretty clear you need a new clutch. I just did the clutch on my GSXR 1000 at 50,000 kms.

Sometimes you can get away with just replacing the fibre plates, but in your case I can pretty much guarantee that you will need a full set of steels as well. It is likely that on some of the fibre plates the fibre material has worn off and you are metal on metal on several of the steel plates in the stack.

Full set of fibres, full set of steels and new springs. Don't forget a new clutch cover gasket as well. The old clutch cover gasket will probably be very stubborn to get off. Be prepared to do some scraping, wire wheel is handy but be careful to not bugger up the machined surface of the clutch cover.

good luck



.
jumpingjupiter2010-07-29 18:24:59 +0000
Any suggestions/recomendation on after market kits. Bayside sells an EBC rebuild kit for a reasonable price but can't find many reviews on this kit.

Barnett has a kit also but most of the rider reveiws are pretty bad.

OEM are great parts but it just a freekin pain in the butt. The part of my butt where my wallet sits in my back pocket.

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